Kazimierz — neighborhood guide

Two histories on top of each other

Kazimierz was founded in 1335 as a separate town. From the 15th century until the Holocaust it was the home of Kraków's Jewish community — at its peak, around 65,000 people lived here. The Holocaust destroyed that community; through the second half of the 20th century the district was largely abandoned. Schindler's List in 1993 turned it into a global tourist destination almost overnight, and it has been gentrifying steadily since.

Plac Nowy is the centre of gravity

The rectangular square with the round red-brick market hall (Okrąglak) in the middle is the heart of present-day Kazimierz. The Okrąglak sells zapiekanki — half-baguettes covered in mushrooms, cheese and ketchup — for around 15 zł. They're a Kraków institution and yes, you should try one. The square is ringed with bars: Alchemia, Mleczarnia, Eszeweria, Hevre — each with its own atmosphere.

The synagogues

There are seven surviving synagogues in Kazimierz. The Old Synagogue (the oldest in Poland, 15th century) is now a museum of Jewish history. The Remuh Synagogue with its old cemetery is the only one still actively used. Most charge a small entry fee (10-20 zł) which goes back to maintenance of the buildings.

Beyond the obvious

Walk down Józefa, Wąska and Bożego Ciała streets for the everyday Kazimierz — bookshops, vinyl, design studios, bars without English signs. Galicia Jewish Museum on Dajwór 18 is worth two hours: it focuses not on what the Jewish community lost, but on what it was.

What to see

Plac Nowy with the Okrąglak market hall
Old Synagogue and the Jewish Museum
Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery
Galicia Jewish Museum
Tempel Synagogue (still active for high holidays)
Bernatka Footbridge to Podgórze

Where to eat

Hamsa (Szeroka 2) — modern Israeli, mid-priced
Hummus Amamamusi (a second branch on Estery)
Marchewka z Groszkiem (Sławkowska on the OT side, but also Mostowa) — cheap traditional
Eszeweria (Józefa 9) — cocktails in a courtyard, not for food
Zapiekanki Kazimierz at the Okrąglak — open until late

How to get there

From the Old Town walk south down Stradomska / Krakowska — about 10 minutes. From the train station, tram 3 or 24 to Plac Wolnica or Stradomska. By Bolt from Rynek: 12-18 zł.

Where to stay nearby

For budget stays: hostels and apartments on Booking.com in your price range. For guided tours nearby: guided tours or hotels in the area (affiliate links).