Old Town (Stare Miasto) — neighborhood guide

What it actually is

The Old Town is the area enclosed by the Planty park belt, where the medieval city walls used to stand. It is roughly 800 m across, walkable in any direction in 10-15 minutes. The street grid still follows the 1257 charter that founded the modern city — the Rynek (main square) was deliberately placed at the centre, with major streets radiating out at right angles.

The Royal Route

The traditional ceremonial route runs from St. Florian's Church (north of the walls), through the Floriańska Gate, down Floriańska Street to the Rynek, then south along Grodzka and Kanonicza to Wawel Hill. Walking it end to end takes about 25 minutes without stops, or several hours with stops at every interesting building. It hits most of the main sights of the Old Town in one straight line.

How long to spend

Realistically, plan a full day for the Old Town if you want to see St. Mary's Basilica with its famous Veit Stoss altarpiece (pay 15 zł and go inside, the photos don't do it justice), the Cloth Hall both at street level and the underground museum, the Czartoryski Museum (Leonardo's Lady with an Ermine), and have lunch at a non-trap restaurant a block off the square. Half a day is enough if you only want the surface.

Where the locals avoid

Restaurants directly facing Rynek Główny are mostly tourist-priced and tourist-quality. Walk one block in any direction and prices drop 30-40% with no quality loss. The 'menu in 7 languages' is a reliable warning sign.

What to see

St. Mary's Basilica (and the hejnał trumpet call from the tower, every hour)
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) — souvenir stalls upstairs, 19th-century Polish art museum on the second floor
Rynek Underground museum — the 13th-century city beneath your feet
Czartoryski Museum — Leonardo's Lady with an Ermine
Wawel — technically a separate area but a 5-minute walk from the Royal Route
Jagiellonian University Collegium Maius — courtyard free, museum 16 zł

Where to eat

U Babci Maliny (Sławkowska 17) — proper Polish home cooking, no menu in 7 languages
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy (Szewska 23) — varieties of pierogi for under 30 zł
Hummus Amamamusi (Sławkowska) — vegan, surprisingly good, 25-35 zł a bowl
Bunkier Café (terrace next to the Bunkier Sztuki gallery) — best café terrace in the centre

How to get there

If you arrive at Kraków Główny train station, walk south through Galeria Krakowska mall and the Floriańska Gate to Rynek (10 minutes). Most tram and bus lines stop at Teatr Bagatela or Plac Wszystkich Świętych on the edge of the Old Town.

Where to stay nearby

For budget stays: hostels and apartments on Booking.com in your price range. For guided tours nearby: guided tours or hotels in the area (affiliate links).